Chhoto Sona Masjid travel guide

At a glance

Built

Between 1493 and 1519 (reign of Alauddin Husain Shah)

Built by

Wali Muhammad

Domes

15 (3 chauchala domes in the middle row)

Location

Shibganj, the Bangladesh part of Gaur

History and details

Part of Gaur, the ancient capital of Bengal, lies in Chapai Nawabganj in Bangladesh, and the rest in Malda in India. A man named Wali Muhammad built this mosque in the reign of Sultan Alauddin Husain Shah (1493–1519). Its domes were once gilded, hence 'Sona Masjid' (golden mosque); as there is a 'Bara Sona Masjid' in the Indian part, this is the 'Chhoto' (small) Sona Masjid.

Outside and in, the mosque has superb stone and terracotta carving of vines, flowers and geometric patterns — which is why it's called the 'gem of Gaur'. In the north-west corner inside is a raised 'zenana gallery' for the sultan or dignitaries to pray.

In the mosque grounds is the grave of Bir Sreshtho Captain Mohiuddin Jahangir, killed in the Liberation War. Nearby are the Tahkhana, the Darasbari mosque and madrasa, the Khaniadighi mosque and Sona Masjid land port.

Things to do

• Look closely at the stone carving on the mosque walls
• Pay your respects at the grave of Bir Sreshtho Mohiuddin Jahangir
• Tour Gaur's other ancient sites by van rickshaw
• Buy mangoes from an orchard in season

How to get to Chhoto Sona Masjid

In Shibganj upazila, on the way to Sona Masjid land port.

Chapai Nawabganj is about 300 km from Dhaka; the journey takes 6–7 hours.

• 🚌 By bus: Desh Travels, National, Hanif from Gabtoli; non-AC ৳700–850, AC ৳1,300–1,600.
• 🚆 By train: Banalata Express (direct) from Kamalapur, fare ৳450–1,300.

Where to stay

• Parjatan motel in the Sona Masjid area
• Basic hotels in town

What to eat

Mangoes (Fazli, Langra, Khirsapat — June–July), kalai roti

Good to know

• The Tahkhana and Darasbari are in the same area — set out in the morning
• Sona Masjid land port is close by

More to see nearby

• Tahkhana (1 km)
• Darasbari Mosque (2 km)
• Khaniadighi Mosque (3 km)
• Sona Masjid land port (3 km)
• Kansat mango market (15 km)

More places to visit in Chapai Nawabganj district

• Tahkhana — A winter palace built by Shah Shuja, on the bank of a pond.
• Darasbari Mosque — Ruins of a big mosque from 1479 and a madrasa.
• Mango orchards — Miles and miles of mango orchards; mangoes straight from the orchard in season.

Location on the map