Where to Travel in Winter: 10 of the Best Places in Bangladesh

No monsoon risk and none of the summer heat: winter is the easiest time to travel in Bangladesh. Clear skies bring distant hills into view, the sea calms down, hill rivers run clear and thousands of migratory birds arrive in the haors and wetlands. The ten places below were picked with the season in mind: some are at their best in winter, and some can only be visited at this time of year.

The ten places at a glance

1. Kanchenjunga from Tetulia, Panchagarh

Tetulia is the northernmost upazila of Bangladesh; across the Mahananda river is West Bengal in India. On clear days you can see Kanchenjunga, on the Nepal–Sikkim border, with the naked eye: a rare chance to see the Himalayas from the plains of Bangladesh. At first light the snow-capped peak turns gold and pink.

• When: best in October and November, from dawn to about 9 am. Thick fog usually hides it in December and January
• Where to watch: the bank of the Mahananda beside the Tetulia dak bungalow
• Getting there: about 440 km from Dhaka; 9–10 hours by bus from Gabtoli or Mohakhali, or the Panchagarh Express or Ekota train from Kamalapur
• Cost: ৳1,500–3,000 per person a day
• Nearby: Banglabandha zero point (17 km) and Tetulia's tea gardens

2. Sajek Valley, Rangamati

The monsoon clouds are gone, but winter skies are clear: the far hill ranges and the hills of Mizoram, seen from Konglak, stand out sharply. The starry night sky is at its best in winter.

• Getting there: bus from Dhaka to Khagrachhari, then a chander gari via Dighinala with the army escort
• Cost: chander gari hire ৳9,000–13,000 (return, 10–12 people); cottages ৳2,000–8,000
• Tip: nights and dawns are cold; bring proper warm clothes

3. Nilgiri, Bandarban

At about 2,200 ft, Nilgiri is an army-run tourist spot. From December to February the skies are clear and hill ranges stretch far into the distance from the top.

• Getting there: about 45 km by chander gari from Bandarban town, 2 hours
• Cost: chander gari hire ৳4,000–6,000 (return)
• On the way: Chimbuk Hill and Shoilo Propat waterfall
• Tip: book a cottage ahead if you want to stay the night; there are only a few

4. Jaflong, Sylhet

Jaflong lies on the Piyain river at the foot of the Khasi-Jaintia hills. From October to March the river coming down from Meghalaya runs at its clearest, with colourful stones visible underneath.

• Getting there: about 60 km from Sylhet city; CNG hire ৳2,000–3,000
• Boat: ৳500–800 to the zero point, with a view of the Dawki suspension bridge across the border
• Nearby: Mayabi waterfall, the Khasi village of Sangrampunji, Tamabil and Lalakhal
• Tip: don't cross the border line and follow BGB instructions; stay out of deep water in the current

5. Baikka Beel, Moulvibazar

About 15 km from Sreemangal, this sanctuary fills with migratory birds from December to February. You can watch them from the watchtower.

• When: early morning and late afternoon for the most birds
• Cost: a small entry fee
• Bring: binoculars; keep your voice down
• Combine with: Sreemangal's tea gardens and Lawachara National Park

6. Tanguar Haor, Sunamganj

Bangladesh's second Ramsar site. In the monsoon it looks like a sea; in winter, when the water drops, it becomes a kingdom of birds with more than 200 species.

• Getting there: Sunamganj to Tahirpur, then a boat or houseboat
• Cost: ৳4,000–10,000 per person on a houseboat (1 night, meals included)
• Combine with: Niladri Lake (bluest from October to March), Barikka Tila and the Jadukata river
• Tip: parts of the haor run shallow in winter; ask about the houseboat's route beforehand

7. The Sundarbans, Khulna

The world's largest single mangrove forest, about 60 percent of it in Bangladesh. From November to February the sea is calm and the weather pleasant, which makes this the main season for visits.

• Getting there: by tour operators' launches from Jail Ghat in Khulna
• Cost: ৳8,000–20,000 per person for a 3-day, 2-night package (launch, food, forest department permit, guide and armed guard)
• What you'll see: herds of deer from the Katka watchtower, the grasslands of Kochikhali, birds in the creeks by small boat at dawn; the Rash Mela at Dublar Char in November
• Tip: pick a government-approved operator, and stay with the guide and guard on land

8. Kuakata, Patuakhali

The 18 km "daughter of the sea", where you can watch both sunrise and sunset over the Bay of Bengal. The name comes from the freshwater well (kua) dug by Rakhine settlers from Arakan in the 18th century; it is still preserved beside the temple in the Rakhine village.

• Getting there: 6–7 hours by direct bus via the Padma Bridge; non-AC ৳700–900, AC ৳1,200–1,800
• Cost: ৳2,000–4,000 per person a day; ৳800–1,500 to see all the spots by motorbike
• Where: sunrise at Gangamati char, sunset at Lebur char; Fatrar char by trawler

9. Cox's Bazar and Inani

From November to March the sea is calm and safer for swimming. Besides the town beach, drive the Marine Drive to Himchari and the coral-stone beach at Inani.

• Cost: ৳2,500–6,000 per person a day
• Tip: hotels are busiest in December and at year's end; book ahead
• More: see our "3-day Cox's Bazar trip plan"

10. Saint Martin's Island

The country's only coral island, known locally as Narikel Jinjira. Because heavy tourism damaged its coral and wildlife, the government has declared it an ecologically critical area and limits the months you can visit, the number of visitors and overnight stays.

• When: the approved season is usually November–January
• Getting there: ships from Cox's Bazar or Teknaf in season; ৳2,000–5,000 return, and online registration may be required
• Tip: check the latest government notice before you go; take no plastic, and don't touch coral or turtle eggs

Getting ready for a winter trip

• Warm clothes: northern districts, the hills and the haors get cold at night
• Fog: thick dawn fog on rivers and haors can delay launches and boats; leave extra time for the trip home
• Roads: buses slow down on foggy nights; daytime buses are safer
• Book early: hotels, houseboats and launches fill fast in the December holidays, around Victory Day and at year's end
• Birdwatching manners: watch from a distance, stay quiet and never chase the birds

Questions and answers

What is the best winter month to travel in Bangladesh?

December and January. For Kanchenjunga, though, October and November are better, and for the red blossoms of the Shimul Garden, February and March.

Where can I see migratory birds?

Tanguar Haor, Baikka Beel and Hakaluki Haor. Most birds arrive between December and February.

Is it safe to swim in the sea in winter?

The sea is calmer in winter, but still stay out when a red flag is up and follow the lifeguards.

Where can I go in winter on a small budget?

Jaflong, Baikka Beel and Sreemangal are close to Dhaka and fairly cheap; you can do them as a day trip or one night away.

Which winter trip is easiest with family?

Cox's Bazar and Kuakata: direct buses, plenty of hotels and easy travel. The Sundarbans also works well for families on a package tour.

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