Paharpur and Mahasthangarh: Two Wonders of Ancient Bengal in a 2-Day Trip
The 2,300-year-old city of Pundranagara and the 1,200-year-old Somapura Mahavihara. How to see both sites in Bogura and Naogaon on one trip, their history, the museums, Behula's Bashor Ghor, Kusumba Mosque, Bogura's famous doi and costs.
- Dhaka to Bogura
- About 200 km, 4–5 hours by bus
- Bogura to Mahasthangarh
- About 13 km
- Bogura to Paharpur
- About 2 hours via Joypurhat
- How long
- 2 days
- Weekly closure
- Site museums usually close on Sunday
Trip ticket
To see for yourself how old Bangladesh's history is, you need to visit two places in the north. Mahasthangarh in Bogura holds the walls of Pundranagara from the 3rd century BCE, the ruins of the oldest city in the country. Paharpur in Naogaon has the 8th-century Somapura Mahavihara, the largest Buddhist monastery south of the Himalayas and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can see both on one trip in two days.
Mahasthangarh: the oldest city in the country
History
Mahasthangarh is the ruin of ancient Pundranagara on the bank of the Karatoya, capital of the Pundravardhana region. A Brahmi inscription found here suggests a thriving city stood here by at least the 3rd century BCE. People lived here for many centuries, through the Maurya, Gupta and Pala periods and on into the Sultanate.
What to see
- The citadel walls: high rectangular earth mounds and brick walls you can walk along.
- Shrine of Shah Sultan Balkhi: on the citadel's high mound.
- Mahasthangarh Museum: coins, terracotta plaques, sculptures and jewellery from the excavations.
- Behula's Bashor Ghor (Gokul Medh): about 2 km away, an ancient stepped brick structure linked to the folk tale of Behula and Lakhindar.
- Bhasu Vihara and other mounds: several more sites nearby.
Getting there
About 13 km from Bogura town along the Rangpur road, half an hour by bus, CNG or auto. Get off at Mahasthan Bazar and walk to the citadel, then take a CNG to the museum and Gokul Medh.
Paharpur: Somapura Mahavihara
History
Paharpur Buddhist Vihara, or Somapura Mahavihara, is believed to have been built by the Pala king Dharmapala in the late 8th century. It was a major centre of learning and religion, drawing monks from distant lands. A huge cruciform temple stands at the centre, surrounded by a square wall lined with more than a hundred monks' cells. It was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985.
What to see
- The central temple: a vast stepped brick structure that looks like a hill from a distance, hence the name Paharpur, "hill town".
- Terracotta plaques: rows of them on the temple walls, showing people, animals and village life.
- Monks' cells: walk the surrounding wall to grasp the full size of the monastery.
- Paharpur Museum: sculptures, coins and plaques from the excavations.
- Satyapir Vita and Gandheshwari temple: two more sites near the monastery.
Getting there
Paharpur is in Badalgachhi upazila of Naogaon, close to Joypurhat. Take a bus from Bogura to Joypurhat (about an hour and a half), then a CNG to Paharpur. You can also go by CNG from Naogaon town. By train, the nearest station is Jamalganj.
Both on one trip: a 2-day plan
Day 1: Mahasthangarh
- Overnight bus from Dhaka, reaching Bogura at dawn; check in and breakfast
- 9 am: Mahasthangarh's citadel walls and the shrine of Shah Sultan Balkhi
- 11 am: Mahasthangarh Museum
- Midday: Behula's Bashor Ghor, then Mahasthan's kotkoti sweets
- Afternoon: the Nawab Palace in Bogura town, and Bogura doi in the evening
Day 2: Paharpur
- 7 am: bus to Joypurhat, then a CNG to Paharpur
- 10 am: Somapura Mahavihara and the museum (2–3 hours)
- Midday: optionally Kusumba Mosque towards Naogaon (a black-stone mosque from 1558, pictured on the five-taka note)
- Afternoon–night: bus to Dhaka from Bogura or Naogaon
More nearby
- Kherua Mosque: a three-domed mosque from 1582 in Sherpur, Bogura.
- Dibar Dighi: an 11th-century pillar in the middle of a pond in Naogaon, a memorial of the Kaibarta revolt.
- Patisar Kuthibari: Rabindranath Tagore's estate office in Atrai, Naogaon.
- Altadighi National Park: a huge pond ringed by sal forest.
Where to stay
Bogura town is the most convenient base, with hotels of every level, from Momo Inn (a luxury resort) to Naz Garden and the Parjatan Motel, ৳1,200–5,000. There is a Parjatan rest house at Paharpur; ask in advance.
What to eat
- Bogura doi: the most famous doi in the country, at old shops such as Akboria, Rafat and Asia
- Mahasthan's kotkoti: a hard sweet fried in jaggery, at Mahasthan Bazar
- Naogaon's pera sandesh
Costs
2 days, per person, group of 2–4:
| Item | Approximate cost |
|---|---|
| Dhaka–Bogura bus (return) | ৳1,000–2,600 |
| One night in a hotel (shared) | ৳600–2,000 |
| Local transport (Mahasthan, Joypurhat, Paharpur) | ৳500–1,000 |
| Food (2 days) | ৳800–1,500 |
| Entry fees (both sites and museums) | ৳100–300 (more for foreigners) |
| Total | ৳3,000–7,400 |
A few tips
- Both sites are open ground; bring a hat, water and comfortable shoes
- Don't touch the terracotta plaques or walls, and don't climb on them
- A local guide brings the history to life
- Winter (November–February) is the most comfortable; there's very little shade at midday in summer
More details in the Bogura and Naogaon district guides. For Rajshahi city and Puthia, read the Rajshahi travel guide.
Questions and answers
Which district is Paharpur in?
Paharpur Buddhist Vihara is in Badalgachhi upazila of Naogaon district, close to Joypurhat town.
How old is Mahasthangarh?
An inscription found here suggests a city stood here by at least the 3rd century BCE, making it the ruin of the oldest city in the country.
Can I see Paharpur and Mahasthangarh in one day?
It's possible if you start very early, but rushed. Two days lets you see both, with the museums, comfortably.
When are Paharpur and Mahasthangarh closed?
Department of Archaeology sites usually close on Sunday and open after midday on Monday. Times can change, so check before you go.
How do I get from Dhaka to Paharpur?
Take a bus to Bogura or Joypurhat, then a CNG to Paharpur. By train, Jamalganj is the nearest station.
See it on the map, plan your trip
Look up the places, routes and costs, then put your own trip together.
